Go to forbynbros@gmail.com to order or call 530-626-7360
Important!
We send our kits with bolts in place a lot of times. They are not tightened to spec! You need to install all fasteners with loctite or a similar product.
Also, there is a slight chance of interference between the front shock and the brake banjo bolt when the wheel is turned all the way and the suspension is articulated to its fullest extent. It is rare but does happen. Check for proper clearance . If there is an issue shock relocation plates can be purchased to provide proper clearance.
The 3/8 button head bolts install from the INSIDE of the swivel housing with nyloc nuts on the OUTSIDE against the spindle surface. Failure to install these first will result in removing the swivel housing after all of your hard work!
If you have questions or hesitation please call us. We are happy to help!
Front brake assembly instructions
The installation of this front disc brake kit is essentially the same procedure as rebuilding the standard wheel hubs and swivel housing assemblies. For this reason, it is also a good opportunity to correct any problems such as pitted swivel balls, worn swivel pins etc.
If you are not totally familiar with overhauling these units use the workshop manual as a guide for the general procedure, along with this installation guide for specific details. Pay close attention , as some set up specifications differ from factory original.
After raising and securely supporting the vehicle , remove the front wheels. Remove the brake drums, wheel hubs and brake backing plates, complete with the original flex hoses. Remove the tie rod and lower end drag link.
Now remove the spindles ( stub axles ) and front half shafts. The swivel ball / swivel housing assemblies can now be removed from the axle.
You can now dismantle the swivel housing assemblies and inspect everything for damaged or worn parts.
You will be discarding all the original B.S.F. hardware, other than the swivel ball to case bolts, and the half shaft nuts.
You will also discard the original outer swivel housings and the original wheel hubs. Obviously the original brake drums and backing plates will have to go.
Install the supplied 3/8 button head bolts from the inside of the swivel housing. Use loctite on all bolts! The nyloc nuts go on after the swivel housing is in place capturing the spindle securely .
The build up of the new swivel housings is the same as for the original except that modern hardware is supplied for the purpose. Using supplied 12mm hex head bolts, do a “dry run” test fit set up and turn the swivel ball “lock to lock” to check for interference. The tolerances within the swivel housing are closer than with the original and the original Land Rover swivel balls vary quite a bit.
It is unlikely to have interference but a minute with a grinder will cure it if it does occur.
After final pre-load set up to factory specs ( using loctite on all bolts ). Apply grey silicone to the seal recess in the new swivel housings. Coat seal lips with grease where they contact with swivel ball. Install seals and retainers using supplied 1/4″ bolts, lock washers and flat washers.
Bolt these assemblies to the axle case and re-install the tie rod and drag link. Install the half shafts and the spindles ( stub axles ) using the 3/8″ nyloc nuts. It is essential that the seal races on the spindle are in good condition to avoid leaks!!
Turning your attention to the wheel hubs, the races for the wheel bearings are pre installed. Bolt the rotors to the hubs using supplied 10mm bolts with blue loctite. Torque these bolts evenly to 40 ft lbs. Grease pack and install the bearings and hub seals. Install the assemblies on the spindles and set them up for ZERO end float ( very slight pre load ). THIS IS IMPORTANT and it varies from factory “loose” set up.
You can now install the drive flanges or locking hubs with the supplied 3/8″ nyloc nuts. Some locking hubs will require longer studs. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE YOUR ORIGINAL B.S.F. BOLTS!!
You can now install the calipers and pads ( bleed screws at the top ) with the supplied 12mm socket head ( allen ) screws. Use loctite sparingly. Tighten securely.
Install the supplied brake hoses, being careful about routing to avoid interference during wheel movement. Install the new lower spring plate/shock mount plate.
Bleed the brakes just like the original set up. ( Use DOT 4 fluid ).
Replace the wheels and test drive. After a few heat cycles, re-tighten the caliper bolts and check for leaks.
Things to remember:
We reccomend blue loctite on all fasteners.
Wheel bearing setup is ZERO end float ( slight pre load ).
Rotor bolt torque 40 ft lbs. evenly.
YOU MUST re tighten caliper bolts after several days.
This kit works with factory Land Rover wheels including 15″ EXCEPT old style military divided wheels.
Rear Brakes
Installation of the rear disc brake kits:
Raise and secure the vehicle and remove the rear wheels. Remove the half shafts , brake drums and wheel hubs / bearings. Unscrew the brake lines from the wheel cylinders and unbolt the backing plate assemblies. There is NO NEED to remove the spindles ( stub axles ) .
Discard the original B.S.F. drive flange bolts and eight of the original backing plate bolts. Discard the original wheel hubs, brake drums and backing plates.
Clean the back side of the axle housing flanges where the caliper brackets will sit. Bolt the caliper brackets on with the supplied 3/8″ bolts, nuts, washers. It is essential that the seal races on the spindles ( stub axles ) are in good condition to avoid leaks!!
Bolt the brake rotors on using supplied 10mm bolts and loctite. Torque these bolts evenly to 40 ft lbs. Grease pack and install bearings and seals. Install the assemblies out to the spindles and set them up for ZERO end float ( very slight pre load ) . THIS IS IMPORTANT and it differs from the factory “loose” set up. Install half shafts with supplied 3/8″ nyloc nuts.
Install the calipers and pads using supplied 12mm socket head ( allen ) screws. Use loctite sparingly. Tighten securely.
The kit supplies adapter fittings to fit the original rear brake tubes to the metric calipers. Screw them into the calipers then re-bend the tubes to fit.
Bleed the brakes. (Use DOT 4 fluid )
Replace the wheels and test drive. After a few heat cycles re-tighten the caliper bolts and check for leaks.
Required parts not supplied with kits
You will need to supply brake calipers, brake pads, brake pad hardware, brake rotors. We recommended parts for front brakes are from 1994 to current Defender 90 and 110 models ( vented rotors ) . Rear brakes we recommend 1994 to 1999 discovery and 1994 to current Defender 90 rotors and calipers etc.
Important notes for brake systems
It is not required that you change the master cylinder of the older models with single circuit systems however, this is your brakes. We recommend you switch to a dual circuit system master cylinder such as the series III models.
Go to forbynbros@gmail.com to order or call 530-626-7360